In October of last year when I decided to invest in my brand, and I thought about all the things I wanted to incorporate, the first person that came to mind was ADW. She has inspired me so much. The growth I've seen in her brand from the time I first started following her until now is immeasurable. So I thought the perfect person to inspire us all during Women's History month was Adriana.
I travelled to Philadelphia and finally met with one of my favorite designers. We laughed and shared our minor disdain for the city and its gloom, question what street wear even is, and discussed some of the brands upcoming projects.
I met Adriana at her an office space where she lead us up to her studio. The vibe immediately changed. You could feel that the designer had made the space a home for her. The environment was warm and welcoming. A comfy couch, swatches, unreleased projects and even some prototypes for projects that are coming soon greeted us as we walked in.
Destiny: How did you find this building?
ADW: So I've been looking for a studio for a while, and I actually knew that there were a lot of studios in this area. And I was asking people I know with different clothing lines you know like 'where is your studio?' I actually knew somebody else that was here and they moved out. So I googled and called and they had a lot of spaces available.
Destiny: Do you like it here, with all the extra stuff going on like the skateboard park?
ADW: I do because I mean like everybody pretty much keeps to themselves. I don't really know anyone in here, and Im an introvert anyways. I only ever really see them (the skateboarders) and they are really nice people. I mean I don't have heat sometimes but other than that its cool.
Destiny: Do they give you inspiration? Because it's a skateboarding school. Thats really cool Im kind of obsessed.
ADW: I don't think I get inspiration from them. I wish I did.
Destiny: So where would you say the inspiration comes from?
ADW: Other small businesses and the Vogue Runway app and I like to look at old pieces from different brands. I know a lot of other small businesses that really inspired me so thats where it mostly comes from. And I don't do a lot of research, like as much as I should, but I get into a flow and thats what inspires me.
Destiny: Research can kind of mess up your creative process I feel like. You know, you see something and you work based on that and the next thing you know your piece looks exactly like that.
ADW: Right and I don't ever want to do that!
Destiny: So you said you like Vogue Runway, do you have a favorite designer?
ADW: I like small businesses so I don't have a high end favorite. I like Murder Bravado and Wizzolx. I thinks hes from D.C. or Maryland. He makes like the perfect coats. I'll send you their stuff. I like small businesses though because I like to see more behind the scenes and big brands, I don’t really know what they are doing, or how they make their stuff. I like seeing people actually sewing, or, you know, like the whole process of making their clothes. I guess if I had to pick a big brand...
Destiny: No you don't have to pick a big brand. I was thinking it may be more difficult for you to relate to other brands because you do everything yourself, in terms of sewing.
ADW: So, no, because I don't make the T shirts from scratch. I don't make the hoodies from scratch. But a lot of stuff I do make.
Destiny: Do you think it's more difficult to make it from scratch, like to actually cut and sew? Your ordinary young, or emerging brand is using a lot of manufacturing. They don't even know the process behind cutting, or sewing anything.
ADW: Yeah I definitely think it's difficult. Especially if you have a lot of orders. And I'm like the only seamstress so it becomes overwhelming. And a lot of people don't know the entire process. So I'm pricing everything, and I'm trying to get people to understand its a lot. And it takes a lot of time. Like I embroidered all the hoodies so it takes longer than usual.
Destiny: Does that make you want to limit how long you are selling a product?
ADW: Yes.
Destiny: Do you like that? You sold the rooted hoodie for what three months?
ADW: About two, yeah two months.
Destiny: So do you think that thats something you want to continue doing or are you doing it because it's just you? Do you like that you can be exclusive with your garments? Like if you got this you came up, if you didn't oh well.
ADW: I think I definitely do it because I don't want to get stuck on one thing. So when I am making hoodies, thats literally all I'm doing. I don't get to branch out and do something else because it take a lot of my time and energy. So I'm definitely doing it because its just me but I also think that I do want it to be somewhat exclusive. So if you get it, you get it, if you don't, you don't.
Destiny: What would you say inspired you to start sewing in the first place?
ADW: When I was younger I had like one or two sewing lessons, and I used to sew with my friends Grandma. And then, I really started in 2015. So, I don't know like where the inspiration came from I kinda was just trying out different things. Like I tried photography. I tried like doing art and all that type stuff and I was like okay I want to do something new and I kind of just bought a sewing machine. No, it was actually a Christmas gift from my mom. And that's how I started so it didn't really come from anywhere I just got bored so I decided to do it.
Destiny: So you were always along the lines of doing something creative.
ADW: Yes oh yeah definitely because I mean I was always into like clothing and stuff. I always liked jewelry, and stuff like that but I never started sewing until 2015.
Destiny: So your feature is coming out in March, and March is Women's History Month. I was adamant about featuring you because you're one of the only people that I know that actually have like a studio, make their own products and you know, seeing this is inspiring, because it's a lost art, I feel like cutting and sewing is lost with emerging designers. People use manufacturers, a lot. How do you feel about being a woman who has acquired something like this?
ADW: Being a woman inspires me. I'm proud of myself. Like you said, you don't see people making their own clothes so I'm glad that I'm able to you know be in the forefront and be on social media and show that like this type of stuff is possible like you can learn a craft, you can get a studio and you can do all of this stuff yourself instead of being dependent on somebody else. But mostly I feel proud.
Destiny: Do you think it was something that you always knew you were gonna do? And this is like not the biggest step but it is a major one.
ADW: Oh yes definitely not the biggest step. But when I got it I was definitely hyped up. But I definitely knew I was going to get here. I always wanted a studio. I had been tweeting about it for years so when I got it I was like okay whats next? But now, I want to like, you know, move on to the next thing. I'm like that. I do something and then I'm ready to move on to the next thing.
Destiny: Do you feel like that about a lot of stuff, like even when you come out with a collection? Once you get it out do you kind of feel like okay well I'm over this, let's move on to the next thing?
ADW: Yeah I definitely feel like I get over stuff quickly. that's also part of the reason why I don't have stuff out for that long. I'm like okay what's next, what's new? I want to move on to the next thing. So, I guess I like to keep going I don't like to stay stagnant.
Destiny: And then another question I had, because I know you used to work at Nordstrom.
ADW: Uh huh.
Destiny: How was the transition from working, to being completely dependent on your business for income? How does that feel?
ADW: I won't lie, it was easy in the beginning, it was easy because I was like prepared for this. But now, I mean, it's not hard, it's just different because you know, you're making the check every two weeks, right, and this business fluctuates so much. Like when I had the hoodies, everything was like steady. But I'm not dropping anything right now, you know, trying to come up with the next idea, means it's slower. So that part is hard but other than that, I like waking up and coming here. Instead of going to Nordstrom. And it just feels good to come here and be like okay I'm at work instead of sewing in my house. Other than that, I think the transition was, you know, easy. I was ready to go. I had been thinking about it for a while like even before the whole pandemic hit. I like was ready to leave Nordstrom. So the biggest thing was just the pay. But other than that, I love it.
Destiny: Do you feel like you look at this as a job? you know how when you go to work, you have a schedule and somebody's like okay you got to work from eight to six or seven to five, Do you feel like you come here with the same intentions? Like okay I'm gonna go to work at the studio from eight to nine and then I'll be home on a lunch break or you just kind of use it at your leisure because you don't want it to feel like a job?
ADW: I don't have a set schedule per se, but I do treat it like a job. I mean, that's kind of how I stay on top of you know everything but some days, I'll be honest, like some days I won't come here for like a couple of days, or like I'm on a trip or, you know, I'm just not feeling inspired or whatever the case may be. So, I do have days like that but when I'm here I try to treat it like a job where I say, I'm going to go eat at this time and I'm gonna come back, or sometimes I sleep here, so it's definitely both.
Destiny: Do you like the area of the studio or do you want it to be somewhere else?
ADW: So, this is Kensington, I don't know if that makes any sense, and I'm actually from Kensington. I don't live here anymore, but I actually don't like it. You probably saw, but it's kind of like a rough neighborhood. But since I'm used to it, it's okay, it does the job for now.
Destiny: What are some things that you find most satisfying about being able to be in your own studio and just working in fashion in general?
ADW: Like I said earlier, I like coming here. Like I like being able to actually do something that I love to do. As far as like being in fashion, I really enjoy like making everything myself
Destiny: What does ADW stand for? is that your name, your initials?
ADW: My name is Adriana Williams, but the AD just comes from Adriana. Originally I tried to put like a meaning behind it all, because everybody has a meaning behind their brand. But it just got so cheesy like I was telling people it stood for A Determined Woman. So I was like wait let's just say it stands for me because you know other brands have names with no meaning, it's literally just people's name last name. So I'm like, No, this is just me.
Destiny: How do you come up with your packaging because your packaging is really good
ADW: For the soil bags for the hoodie, it was flowers on the hoodie and I'm like okay I really love flowers. Then somebody gave me the idea like you should get creative with the packaging and I was like okay. Let me look at a soil bag, so I actually stole this soil bag from miracle soil, and just like changed all the wording and the format is the same. Um...I might get in trouble for that
(Both laughing)
ADW: So I used Photoshop for everything and wanted to make it seem like it was actually real. I had one of our customers moms ask like who ordered soil? And then for the hats. So like I just came out with this hoodie and it's like dope is packaging. I can't just ship these hats in a regular you know bag or whatever the case may be. So, I was okay when I originally made them, I thought oh let me ship the hat in an actual bucket. Like a plastic bucket. And I couldn't find, my thing is like brown right now, and I couldn't find any plastic buckets. So I said Okay, I'm just gonna put a smiley face on a box with a bucket, put it upside down and just do it like that.
Destiny: And do you do all the graphics yourself or do you have someone else do it for you?
ADW: I do it all myself. I originally paid somebody to do the hoodie, but I didn't end up using it, so I did my own for that and then I did the bucket hat box myself too.
Destiny: Thats cool, how did you learn how to use Photoshop?
ADW: So my brother's really good at Photoshop so if I ever need anything, he'll help me with that. But it's like just color changes like circles smiley faces like it's really simple to make. And I used Photoshop throughout school.
Destiny: You went to Howard right? Did you like it? Did you like D.C. in general?
ADW: Yes, I wish I could go back. I love Howard. I really love Howard. If I could move to D.C. I probably would.
(Destiny opens her eyes wide, in shock)
ADW: You hate it?
Destiny: I don't hate it.
ADW: I hate Philly so...
Destiny: Yeah, I don't like Philly. My sisters live here, I hate coming here.
ADW: It's nothing to do.
Destiny: It just feels so gloomy.
ADW: I'm ready to go.
Destiny: So where would you go, would you go to New York or would you go to D.C.?
ADW: If I really could go somewhere it wouldn't be in the States, probably back to London because I studied abroad there.
Destiny: Oh you studied abroad in London. Was it fun? Did you learn a lot?
ADW: Learn? I mean like, it was a nice experience and like, you know, I guess I learned their culture. But I didn't do any like fashion classes or anything there. it was more so like just business classes. My major is in supply chain management. It was nice being there. So was my trip to the other countries. We went to Paris, Portugal and Spain and everything was so cheap so that was like the best experience ever. But if I had to choose somewhere here, I don't know, because New York is a lot of people.
Destiny: And very expensive.
ADW: I was actually talking to somebody about going to Atlanta. I never been to Atlanta so I don't know.
Destiny: Atlanta is kind of slow. I mean it's, I feel like it's a lot of stuff to do in terms of like going out, I'm not really the type of person, I don't go to clubs. But, I mean, it just depends on what you're interested in.
ADW: A lot of people that go there and start their businesses.
Destiny: Right, now in terms of black business they do have like a very high demand for black business so thats a plus. Can you tell us anything that you're about to come out with in the next couple of months?
ADW: So, swimwear of course. But I'm trying to do something for Spring, but I don't know what I'm doing yet. I kind of want to do a knit or maybe a cardigan, a rain coat, and accessories to go with it. I'm trying to not do t shirts this year, but I probably will.
Destiny: Do you think that your brand is more streetwear or do you feel like its more so in the ready to wear category?
ADW: What is street wear?
Destiny: I mean, it kind of is ready to wear, I guess. So it is kind of like more t shirts and hoodies and hats and a lot of graphics. What would you say if you could put a label on it, what would you want it to be? What is street wear is a valid question.
ADW: I don't know, I guess it could be considered street wear. I don't really put a label on it.
Destiny: Because you don't want to put yourself in a box, right?
ADW: So if I say I make street wear, you know t shirts and hats, I'm trying to you know do more than that. So I feel like its whatever I'm in the mood for.
Destiny: Fashion in general is getting to a point where it's not labeling things so heavily, and kind of just, I want to wear what I want, like relax, not that serious. Do you feel like you face like a lot of challenges that a big brand doesn't face? Well not necessarily a big brand, but do you feel like you face a lot more challenges that you wish you didn't have to?
ADW: Definitely because you know some days I do want a manufacturer. I feel like mega brands have access to more.
Destiny: You want help so you can be larger.
ADW: Right. and also so that can push the product out faster. It is slower on my end being as though it's only me, so that's probably the biggest problem.
Destiny: Would you hire a team, or are you just not in that mindset at all right now?
ADW: I would. Actually I have been considering it. It's just like, it's hard to find people that are passionate about your brand and also, like I want another seamstress. So, people that know how to sew usually have their own brand already, so they're not, you know, willing to really work for another brand. But I am trying to look for another seamstress. What I really want is an in house team. So a seamstress, a whole logistics team, all of it, that's really like my main goal.
Destiny: I think that that's a lost art and people forget that fashion is more than just making clothes in general. It takes a lot for people to make a collection. You know like everything takes time. And like, when you think about big luxury brands, they don't just have random people coming in to make their stuff they have professionals, who make hand make Dior bags, you know what I'm saying. You don't think about the people who actually learn this craft and aren't trying to be famous designers. They're passionate about making pieces. So I do think that it's probably way harder at this time to find people who don't want to be in the spotlight and kind of just want to help you build a brand.
ADW: I feel like I might have to like find someone thats older.
Destiny: Yeah I can see that working out. I have an aunt that sews. And she can make anything but she doesn't want to have a clothing line you know. She just knows how to sew. What would you say would be your end goals. In terms of the brand, and yourself in general?
ADW: I definitely want a different studio. I'm like, in between wanting a storefront and not wanting a storefront. My biggest goal is like I said earlier, Is finding that in house team. Finding those seamstresses. Having a whole logistics and shipping team. Having a marketing team and having different teams for everything. I really want to do that. Thats my end goal. Well for right now. I mean, It will definitely change but I'm starting off small.
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